The Pink City and the Mighty Taj Mahal - Jaipur and Agra

My once-in-a-lifetime cycling experience within the depths of the Himalayas generated an irresistible urge for additional exploration. I desired nothing more than to immerse myself in traditional Indian culture and soak up the sights, sounds and smells that the country has to offer. The first port of call for my cycling companions and I was Jaipur, or the Pink City as it is affectionately known.

Jaipur is the largest city in the state of Rajasthan and upon first glance it is undoubtedly the epitome of magnificence and vibrancy. Rich in historical heritage, the pink hue of the city is surrounded by a number of theories questioning the meaning behind it. Regardless of the authoritative story, the city savours and celebrates its past by maintaining its history. Even the newer buildings have maintained the colour of their original counterparts in order to preserve the legacy of the Pink City. Jaipur is obviously treasured and safeguarded by people who possess great pride in their heritage.

In addition to the striking colour of Jaipur, the city exists as an architectural marvel and the confluence of textures and designs immediately captured my attention. Tapering columns and elegant porticos dominate the city and exist as inviting gateways to the splendid fortresses, majestic palaces and tranquil temples that make up Jaipur’s skyline. The intrigue that the architecture of the city created meant that my group and I spent our time exploring Hawa Mahal, an intricate palace built from pink sandstone, and the famous Amer Fort, a gargantuan fort featuring winding paths and cobbled courtyards, and a particular point of interest for Sam, the history scholar amongst us. The top of Amer Fort is home to picturesque views that enthral each and every visitor.

After exploring Jaipur’s architectural magnificence, we were keen to experience the ‘real’ India. Driving through the side streets of the city, we spontaneously decided to visit the Raj Mandir cinema to view ‘Rowdy Rathore’, a newly released Bollywood film. Immediately upon entering, it was apparent that the experience awaiting us would contrast entirely to an English cinema visit. The expansive room resembled an ornate theatre and the screen seemed to stretch on for miles. The lights dimmed and the film was immediately met with shrieks of delight. One thing was for certain: The people of Jaipur were going to transform this visit into a colourful event! Throughout the showing, there was singing, clapping, shouting and dancing and it was almost as if the actors on screen were actually present in the auditorium. The enthusiasm in the room was infectious and all-consuming and it was impossible to resist the urge to join in, this being a particular highlight for Lauren who later described herself as feeling like an extra in the film. Before long, the whole group was cheering and frolicking with the rest of the crowd.

Although I would have appreciated additional time to explore Jaipur, upon leaving the city my excitement was at an all-time high as we approached what I believed would be the pinnacle of the trip: A visit to the mighty Taj Mahal in Agra. For James and I in particular, visiting this wonder of the world was a lifetime ambition. Renowned for its spectacular architecture and aesthetic beauty, the Taj Mahal is one of the most acclaimed buildings in the world and popular with tourists from all over the globe – and for good reason. We arrived at the Taj Mahal at sunrise and the palace seemed to glow in the light of the emerging sun. Its stunning architectural beauty is beyond adequate description. From a distance the exterior appears to be moulded entirely from plain white marble, however upon closer inspection, the entire mausoleum is decorated with ornate calligraphy and intricate engravings.

In order to make the most of our sole visit to the Taj Mahal, we each paid 500 rupees for a guide. We certainly hit the jackpot with our assigned chaperone, Bashir, as he talked us through the design, construction, symbolic meaning and history of the Taj Mahal in an interesting, enthusiastic and knowledgeable way. He was willing to answer our numerous questions as he explained every element of the building and surrounding grounds and it is fair to say that he enhanced the experience for each and every member of the group.

In addition to the tremendous amount of knowledge possessed by Bashir, he also happened to be a remarkable photographer who was able to capture specific moments perfectly. He was not only willing, but eager to photograph every member of the group and he taught us numerous poses, including the exact pose modelled by Princess Diana when she visited the Taj Mahal with Prince Charles in 1992. Bashir proceeded to shoot us from particular angles so it appeared as though we were holding the spire of the building between our fingers, before capturing close-up images of the palace reflected in our sunglasses. The knowledge and skill of Bashir in the photography department enhanced my personal experience in many ways and I left India with numerous unique photographs of the Taj Mahal that I would not have possessed without his presence. The images now decorate the walls of my house and in addition to remembering the experience itself, I also think of Bashir.

That night, as the group and I prepared for the lengthy journey back to England, we reflected upon our month-long visit whilst nursing our tea, or ‘chai’ as it is known throughout India. In particular, I thought about how the tradition of chai itself had accompanied us throughout the entirety of our travels. 'Masala chai' is the correct term for the beverage and it is made by a chai wallah who boils together spices, milk and sugar before making the liquid frothy by pouring it from pot to pot. It is delicious. My favourite masala chai moments were waking up in my sleeping bag in the Himalayas to a steaming cup prepared by Ranjeet, being presented with the beverage whilst surrounded by four Indian women who were in the process of dressing the females of the group in vibrant saris (which we later purchased) and, of course, sipping the sweet liquid in a restaurant in Agra with views of the Taj Mahal.

The ancient land of India is a spectacular landscape of vibrant cultural heritage and captivating beauty. From the sprawling, icy peaks of the Himalayas, to the colourful and sacred urban cities, India gives diversity a whole new meaning. Swirling skirts, colourful turbans, intricate leatherwork and ambling camels dominate the streets and present visitors with a glimpse into the regal past of the country. In addition to pushing my physical and mental limits during the cycling expedition, I also soaked up traditional Indian culture and made lifelong friends. Ranjeet and I continue to chat via Facebook and email on a regular basis and I can’t thank him enough for the experience.

The group and I are all certain that we will return one to India one day. After all, the flamboyance of the country can only ever be experienced by visiting it, and there is so much more to explore. To anyone who may be planning an adventure there: You’re going to have the time of your life.

Cycling in a Summer Paradise - Himachal Pradesh

Surreal is the only accurate description. I was perched on a sturdy mountain bike, in the depths of Himachal Pradesh, a province located within the Himalayas and a location which the majority of tourists have never had the pleasure of visiting.

Himachal Pradesh is a state in Northern India and one of the few areas in the whole of the country that remains largely untouched by external customs due to its challenging and varied terrain. As a result, it exists as a place of extraordinary natural beauty and a visit there is something to be treasured. Upon first glance, I was able to acknowledge that the long and tiresome hours spent travelling via tuk tuk, train, car and van in order to reach the starting point for our cycle were undoubtedly worth it.

The soft morning breeze blew over the peaks of the mighty Himalayan mountain range and rustled through the tall, fragrant evergreen landscape. From the designated starting point of our cycling expedition, it was possible to see the diverse environment for miles around. As I adjusted my helmet and prepared to begin the adventure of a lifetime, my initial nervousness was transformed into excitement and I could hardly wait a second longer to begin. Gazing at the road ahead, the mountain almost immediately veered off around a sharp bend meaning that my group and I were literally unable to see what was around the corner. On reflection, I wonder if that particular spot deep within the foothills of the Himalayas was our starting point for a reason; the steep and winding road that stretched ahead of us was concealed from view and we began the ride in positive spirits.

‘Chalo, chalo, let’s go!’ shouted our guide and mentor, Ranjeet. He was lean, tanned, muscular and immediately viewed as a role model by the whole of the group. His shapely calves lightly touched upon the pedals of his bicycle as if it was the easiest task he had ever performed. Whilst the rest of the group panted and groaned their way upwards along the dusty gravel track, Ranjeet did not even break into a sweat and focused his attention purely upon motivating the group with his nurturing personality and gently encouraging words.

The tyres of our bicycles unsettled the dust and, cycling alongside one another, James and I were constantly knocked off balance by the large, jagged rocks that lined the trail. Fragments of dirt entered the atmosphere, along with our mouths and eyes, which meant that our most important senses were compromised. The intensity of an already difficult trial was heightened and I wondered how I would cope with an additional two weeks of cycling. The challenge grew more difficult as the seconds ticked by. I filled my head with thoughts of the children I had met back in Delhi, and the extent to which the funding I was acquiring by taking part in this expedition was improving their existence. I was acutely aware of the life-changing potential my sponsorship was able to deliver, however I found it difficult to think of anything other than the intensity of the current moment. 

As the blazing sun beat down onto the mountain top and we rounded yet another corner, I was drenched with sweat. Regardless of my weary, aching legs pushing down onto the pedals with all the strength I had left, I was travelling at a snail’s pace. I cast my mind back to the spinning classes I had undertaken before departing the UK and how naïve I had been when I thought that the real thing would be easier than the monotony of a static bicycle. As Ranjeet cruised ahead of the group without a care in the world, I wondered how his body coped with this level of intense physical exercise on a regular basis. It is no exaggeration to claim that he appeared superhuman to the group and I in that moment. Each rotation of the pedals took more and more effort as I progressed higher up the mountain. My breath became laboured and it felt as if someone was pushing on my chest, depriving my lungs of the oxygen they so badly required. My muscles were aching and I longed for both rest and water. 

The redeeming factor of the arduous ascent was the dazzling scenery, a particularly awe-inspiring element for James and Ruth who were rendered speechless. The rugged, rocky terrain was broken by views of vibrant blooms and dense woodland and as I revelled in the magnificence that appeared before me, I was able to understand why Himachal Pradesh is famous for its abundant natural beauty. Also striking was the tranquillity of the mountain as a whole. The serene atmosphere allowed me to appreciate the spectacular and picturesque snow-capped peaks towering above us and the rugged terrain that would eventually lead us there. Himachal Pradesh is truly the most magnificent place I have ever had the fortune of visiting.

As the group and I continued on our 700km journey from Shimla to Manali, our bodies grew accustomed to the heat and intensity of our expedition and we were able to appreciate the mountain’s overwhelming natural beauty to a greater level. The terrain was varied and we encountered new and exciting elements with every day that passed. We navigated numerous streams in our journey through Nako, endured the dry and dusty heat of the Spiti Valley, took in panoramic views as we arrived at the icy Kunzum Pass and on day 15, we crossed Rohtang Pass, famous as an unpredictable and deadly route due to its erratic weather. The end was in sight and we were ready to begin our descent.

As our final day arrived and we descended from the glacial peaks of Rohtang Pass to the fiery sun of Manali, the drastic change in weather conditions highlighted the sheer distance we had climbed over the past two weeks. On reflection, although the whole group considered the cycling experience to be an immensely strenuous test of endurance, we also found it hugely rewarding and worthwhile. We had all pushed our physical and mental resolve to places we never could have imagined and, for me, there had never been any alternative but to keep going. Personally, the expedition remains in my memory as one of the most amazing experiences of my life. 

Touchdown - First Impressions and Project Visit in Delhi

Touchdown in Delhi. Contrary to my expectations, the Indian airport was expansive and current. As my group and I stepped outside, however, we came face to face with an extraordinarily contrasting world. Hurtling through the streets in our guides’ van, it was almost impossible to absorb the sheer number of sights, sounds and smells. Indeed, Lizzie immediately burst into tears as she felt so overwhelmed. Delhi is the definition of a sensory overload. People who have visited India before will know what I mean. If not, imagine the busiest motorway you’ve ever seen, then quadruple the traffic and add cows, goats, dogs, constant chatter, exhaust fumes, incense, animal excrement, the scent of Indian spices and an expansive temple with an immense array of colours decorating the walls. Now you will possess a vague idea. India is colourful, riotous, hectic and culturally rich, which can be hard to process when you have spent the previous 9 hours on an aeroplane.

Perhaps the most startling element of Delhi is the rules and regulations surrounding the roads, or rather, the fact that rules and regulations do not seem to exist. My travelling companion, Ruth, felt that the scene resembled a high speed car chase. Indeed, the traffic in Delhi is enough to astonish even the most erratic of drivers. Gazing through the window of the van, the surrounding roads resembled an ocean of vehicles, and the strict road traffic rules that are heavily enforced in the Western world don’t appear to exist at all in India. The people exist in such a perpetual state of urgency that cars, vans and lorries all weave through the narrowest of spaces in order to reach their required destination as quickly as humanly possible. The green and yellow auto-rickshaws, or tuk tuks, are often the worst culprits of all. A jaunt in one leaves the heart racing and adrenaline pumping as they squeeze through miniscule gaps in the traffic and appear un-phased by the existence of vehicles ten times their size. One thing is for sure: A spin in India is certainly never boring!

As we drove through the side streets of central Delhi, the level of poverty hit us like a brick in the face. There were swarms of half-naked people dozing under wheelbarrows and carts, evidently their only source of shade. A distressing quantity of people lacked eyes and limbs as they begged for money, possessing only the rags on their back. The worst part was that the majority of these impoverished and deprived people were young children, rendered increasingly powerless due to their lack of survival knowledge. This part of the journey conjured an extreme level of raw emotion within my group and I. An eerie silence descended over the van as we individually attempted to process the scenes we had been presented with. Although I had only been in India for a few hours, I knew that I had made the right decision in undertaking this expedition. The money we had all worked so hard to raise was undoubtedly going towards helping these disadvantaged and deserving people.

For me, one of the most inspirational parts of the whole expedition was our project visit. As we were undertaking our cycling expedition to generate funds for Childreach International, the charity arranged a visit to one of the schools that past donations had funded. Immediately upon our arrival we were greeted by excited children who came hurtling out of the building at an alarming speed eager to say hello, or ‘Namaste’, the Hindi version of the greeting.

Under the heat of the blazing Indian sun, a beautiful merging of cultures occurred. The children were eager to play with us and we taught them the words and actions to the iconic song and dance routine, the Hokey Cokey. In return, they taught us an Indian song before leading us inside their school and demonstrating their knowledge of both the Hindi and English languages. Their dedication was impressive and led to a deep contemplative moment for me personally. As we shared our traditions with one another, I realised that our hard work was evidently altering their lives, but their existence was also changing ours. Regardless of their personal struggles, each and every one of the children wore huge smiles on their faces and their bodies radiated joy. Their attitudes were impressive and they were evidently thrilled that they had gained the opportunity to learn.

The experience of witnessing first-hand the work that Childreach International conducts in India was both inspiring and humbling. Connecting with the local community and seeing the children bring to life the importance of generosity, cooperation and knowledge was enlightening and I was touched by their friendliness and intelligence. For our team leader, Ruth, the project visit emphasised the fact that every single person in this world deserves the right to education and the resulting empowerment it is able to supply. The work of Childreach International evidently aids these people in a profound way and their gratefulness motivated my team and I further in regards to the prospect of our 700km cycle, whilst also encouraging us to continue our fundraising activities once the expedition ended. The incentive behind our challenge was hugely important and after putting faces to the problems in the developing world, we were rendered speechless and eager to begin.  

Preparing for an Indian Adventure - Fundraising, Training and Essential Information

If someone had informed my younger self that one day I’d cycle 700km across the Indian Himalayas for charity, I definitely would not have believed them. The revelation would undoubtedly have been met with hysteria at the thought of mounting a bicycle, never mind the unnerving prospect of cycling 700km in the blistering heat that India has to offer. However, life often veers off our expected path and presents us with opportunities that we are unable to turn down.

My life as I knew it changed when I attended my friend James' presentation which hoped to recruit volunteers to cycle the Himalayas in a bid to raise money for Childreach International, a charity aiming to unlock the potential of the world’s most marginalised children and provide families with basic rights such as access to food, water, education and healthcare. Something that began as moral support for a friend soon transformed entirely and I found myself captivated by images of India’s sprawling mountains, bustling urban cities and golden sandy beaches. Almost immediately, the adrenaline racing through my veins motivated me to sign up for the adventure of a lifetime. Like myself, my future cycling companions Lizzie and Katy found the prospect of cycling such a long distance hilarious, whilst Lauren and Ruth were consumed with nerves.

Astonishingly, my main disquietude was not about the intensity of a 700km uphill cycle, nor did I consider the culture shock awaiting me. My initial thought after committing to an Indian cycling excursion was meeting my fundraising target of £2500. In a burst of excitement, I promptly began brainstorming ideas and within a week I found myself in the centre of a crowded dance floor dressed in a banana costume whilst shaking an equally brightly coloured fundraising bucket. It is no exaggeration to claim that I was the centre of attention and I began to understand how animals confined within a zoo must feel. Thankfully, the awkward phase soon vanished and I began to enjoy the liberation my banana suit delivered. Queues of drunken people staggered up to me to request photographs and, oddly, I began to revel in my newly acquired celebrity status. I can confirm that dressing up and acting the fool in public is indeed a highly effective fundraising technique, much to the dismay of Lizzie who was reluctant to participate for fear of appearing idiotic. I couldn't believe my eyes when I counted my earnings at the end of the night and realised that a lone, dancing banana had raised a total of almost £150.

As the weeks flew by, I realised that a large-scale event would be necessary to boost my fundraising total and reach my distant goal. There was only one thing for it: Join forces with the cycling team that I would grow to view as family, and host a speed dating event. After weeks of planning, preparing and advertising, the big day arrived. The turnout was better than my team and I could ever have envisioned. There was an increasingly long queue of people waiting outside our venue of choice, Mr Lynch in Jesmond, all of whom were eager to discover what our night had in store. It seemed that the posters we’d distributed around the city centre had achieved their aim. By the end of the night, we had matched up several potential couples, hosted a raffle with big prizes and managed to raise £700!

As the months drew on and my fundraising target was met, I began to equip myself for the expedition of a lifetime. Browsing several specialist bicycle shops, I realised I didn’t have the slightest clue about cycling. It was only after I began intense spinning classes, after which I ached for days at a time and even began to view walking up and down stairs as a great challenge, that I realised my Indian endeavour was bound to be my most physically and mentally demanding venture to date. I wasn't the alone. After one particularly difficult class, Lizzie joked that the other members of the gym must have thought she had been swimming as she was soaked with sweat. I could sympathise. Every spinning class was agony and I was in need of a considerable morale boost for the expedition that lay ahead.

The finishing touches on my preparation checklist included applying for my Indian visa, which requires forward planning and impeccable timing as it becomes valid from the date of issue rather than the date of entry. The same rules apply for Inner Line Permit applications, an essential permit regardless of activity type, allowing tourists and Indian citizens alike to enter and exit protected areas of the Himalayas, such as the serene Ladakh, in an unproblematic manner. 

In addition to this administration work, the sheer number of vaccinations required, although unarguably an essential part of Indian travel, took a serious hit on my bank balance and left me resembling a pin cushion of the human variety. These less than desirable factors were counteracted by the comforting knowledge that I would not be a victim of rabies or Japanese encephalitis any time soon. When we were told to ensure our travel insurance included medical repatriation, the fear really began to kick in and I anxiously wondered what I was letting myself in for.

The seasons changed rapidly. June arrived, and although I had been preparing for months, I found myself on my bedroom floor at 1am on the morning of my departure frantically attempting to cram my belongings into my backpack. I had no idea that cycling required so much gear. 18kg later and I was ready to vacate, harbouring a deep sense of apprehension regarding the journey from Newcastle to Heathrow (via two trains and a tube), with an exceptionally heavy backpack in tow.

Before I knew it, I was located within the depths of a gargantuan aeroplane and filled with eager anticipation regarding the physical and spiritual journey that lay ahead of me. As we zoomed down the runway and rose above the clouds, I acknowledged that the challenge awaiting me had the potential to change my life as I knew it forever.