Surreal is the only accurate description. I was perched on a sturdy mountain bike, in the depths of Himachal Pradesh, a province located within the Himalayas and a location which the majority of tourists have never had the pleasure of visiting.
Himachal Pradesh is a state in Northern India and one of the few areas in the whole of the country that remains largely untouched by external customs due to its challenging and varied terrain. As a result, it exists as a place of extraordinary natural beauty and a visit there is something to be treasured. Upon first glance, I was able to acknowledge that the long and tiresome hours spent travelling via tuk tuk, train, car and van in order to reach the starting point for our cycle were undoubtedly worth it.
The soft morning breeze blew over the peaks of the mighty Himalayan mountain range and rustled through the tall, fragrant evergreen landscape. From the designated starting point of our cycling expedition, it was possible to see the diverse environment for miles around. As I adjusted my helmet and prepared to begin the adventure of a lifetime, my initial nervousness was transformed into excitement and I could hardly wait a second longer to begin. Gazing at the road ahead, the mountain almost immediately veered off around a sharp bend meaning that my group and I were literally unable to see what was around the corner. On reflection, I wonder if that particular spot deep within the foothills of the Himalayas was our starting point for a reason; the steep and winding road that stretched ahead of us was concealed from view and we began the ride in positive spirits.
‘Chalo, chalo, let’s go!’ shouted our guide and mentor, Ranjeet. He was lean, tanned, muscular and immediately viewed as a role model by the whole of the group. His shapely calves lightly touched upon the pedals of his bicycle as if it was the easiest task he had ever performed. Whilst the rest of the group panted and groaned their way upwards along the dusty gravel track, Ranjeet did not even break into a sweat and focused his attention purely upon motivating the group with his nurturing personality and gently encouraging words.
The tyres of our bicycles unsettled the dust and, cycling alongside one another, James and I were constantly knocked off balance by the large, jagged rocks that lined the trail. Fragments of dirt entered the atmosphere, along with our mouths and eyes, which meant that our most important senses were compromised. The intensity of an already difficult trial was heightened and I wondered how I would cope with an additional two weeks of cycling. The challenge grew more difficult as the seconds ticked by. I filled my head with thoughts of the children I had met back in Delhi, and the extent to which the funding I was acquiring by taking part in this expedition was improving their existence. I was acutely aware of the life-changing potential my sponsorship was able to deliver, however I found it difficult to think of anything other than the intensity of the current moment.
As the blazing sun beat down onto the mountain top and we rounded yet another corner, I was drenched with sweat. Regardless of my weary, aching legs pushing down onto the pedals with all the strength I had left, I was travelling at a snail’s pace. I cast my mind back to the spinning classes I had undertaken before departing the UK and how naïve I had been when I thought that the real thing would be easier than the monotony of a static bicycle. As Ranjeet cruised ahead of the group without a care in the world, I wondered how his body coped with this level of intense physical exercise on a regular basis. It is no exaggeration to claim that he appeared superhuman to the group and I in that moment. Each rotation of the pedals took more and more effort as I progressed higher up the mountain. My breath became laboured and it felt as if someone was pushing on my chest, depriving my lungs of the oxygen they so badly required. My muscles were aching and I longed for both rest and water.
The redeeming factor of the arduous ascent was the dazzling scenery, a particularly awe-inspiring element for James and Ruth who were rendered speechless. The rugged, rocky terrain was broken by views of vibrant blooms and dense woodland and as I revelled in the magnificence that appeared before me, I was able to understand why Himachal Pradesh is famous for its abundant natural beauty. Also striking was the tranquillity of the mountain as a whole. The serene atmosphere allowed me to appreciate the spectacular and picturesque snow-capped peaks towering above us and the rugged terrain that would eventually lead us there. Himachal Pradesh is truly the most magnificent place I have ever had the fortune of visiting.
As the group and I continued on our 700km journey from Shimla to Manali, our bodies grew accustomed to the heat and intensity of our expedition and we were able to appreciate the mountain’s overwhelming natural beauty to a greater level. The terrain was varied and we encountered new and exciting elements with every day that passed. We navigated numerous streams in our journey through Nako, endured the dry and dusty heat of the Spiti Valley, took in panoramic views as we arrived at the icy Kunzum Pass and on day 15, we crossed Rohtang Pass, famous as an unpredictable and deadly route due to its erratic weather. The end was in sight and we were ready to begin our descent.
As our final day arrived and we descended from the glacial peaks of Rohtang Pass to the fiery sun of Manali, the drastic change in weather conditions highlighted the sheer distance we had climbed over the past two weeks. On reflection, although the whole group considered the cycling experience to be an immensely strenuous test of endurance, we also found it hugely rewarding and worthwhile. We had all pushed our physical and mental resolve to places we never could have imagined and, for me, there had never been any alternative but to keep going. Personally, the expedition remains in my memory as one of the most amazing experiences of my life.
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